We all had to take turns changing into our muslins and standing on the tabletops and our professor walked around telling our group members what to pin and cut into to get the fit right. What helped a lot for seeing where to make alterations was having the grainline, high hip, low hip, knee, and calf lines basted in. That way, we could see where things weren't hanging plumb or perfectly parallel to the floor all the way around.
|I needed two vertical darts in the front crotch area to get rid of the excess fabric there.|
|There's nothing quite so nerve-wracking as knowing that somebody is seam-ripping right by your butt.|
After everyone tried on and fit their muslins, we went over the kinds of pattern adjustments that might be necessary. One of our assignments is to make those adjustments on tiny paper pattern blocks for reference, so I thought you all might like to see mine. I apologize for the blinding yellow background; we were supposed to use a stiff backing and all I had were these binder divider tabs. I think it kind of helps you see where the cuts go, though, right?
|#1) Crotch curve corrections: I did the back alteration to correct the mono-butt look. By giving more fabric to the back piece, one avoids having the fabric pulled so tightly across the butt that it becomes unnecessarily flattened.|
|#2) If the grainlines angle in toward each other in a V, the above correction is necessary to accommodate the angle at which your legs exit your pelvis.|
For all of these slash-and-spread moves, we literally cut and spread the muslins while the people were still wearing them, which let us adjust until there were no more wrinkles; this also let us measure exactly how much to spread the pattern pieces. It was an...intimate...experience for all involved, and thank goodness it was only ladies in the class. I wish I could show you what some of those slashed-and-spread bits looked like for real, but obviously I'm not going to post other people's butt pictures here! You'll have to look at my slashed-and-spread hyperextended calf alteration and imagine it on abdomens and such.
|Look at how many inches they had to add in with an additional strip of muslin! The prof said she hadn't had to do one in a very long time, so I guess this is proof that I really do have burly calves?|
|You can see the diagonal fish-eye-esque darts under the butt, the hyper-extended calf cut, and the ripped open CB seam so as to avoid the mono-butt look. Yup, I had blue skivvies on that day.|
I made three of my four adjustments (I couldn't figure out that diagonal dart, so I'll have to ask the prof about that one. ETA: answer is here) and redrew my sloper, so we'll see next week how it translates into a second muslin!
Oh, and for those who were wondering, the drafting book we're using is Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's Clothing, by Suzy Furrer.