Wednesday, February 5, 2014

It's My Turn Now

Last year, my biggest accomplishment was sewing a wedding dress for my best friend Elaine. To do so, I used Simplicity 5006, a lingerie pattern that included a corset and a petticoat. It was a long process and I learned a lot, and out of it came a beautiful outfit. I must confess, though, that at the end of it I wished ever so slightly that I had put all that work into something for me. Now before you get all up in arms and call me selfish, let me say that I don't begrudge a single bit of the time I spent on her wedding dress -- after all, it's my favorite make of 2013 -- but I did wish I had an excuse to make an equally elaborate thing for myself. Well, now I have that chance!



One of my classes this semester at Canada College is Bustier Construction with Lynda Maynard, and the pattern we base our garment off of is...Simplicity 5006! So now I have the excuse I need to make myself a piece of gorgeous formalwear: oh, it's for class. That pricey coutil? Oh, it's for class. All the time spent perfecting the fit? Oh, it's for class. All the trips to Lacis in Berkeley? Oh, it's for class. You guys, I'm super excited to have this opportunity! And like the pants-making class last semester, I'm already learning tons. For example, the final garment has four layers of fabric: each piece of coutil is underlined with an actual lining fabric, and each fashion fabric piece is underlined in flannel; the pieces are then sewn together to make two "complete" garments, then sewn right sides together and flipped.

This is my lining+coutil piece. You can kind of see where Lynda drew in boning channel markings. 
It's a little wrinkly without any boning. I also need to take it in more in the chestal area. Of course. I really do like the sweetheart neckline though!
I extended the height of the back by a couple of inches to prevent the hideous back muffin top. 

Class has been in session for a few weeks now, so we've made muslins, fit them, made second muslins, corrected our patterns, and now we've made up the inner lining+coutil part of the garment. In the spirit of stashbusting, I've chosen to line my bustier with this adorable cat-print quilting cotton that I got two summers ago in an exchange with Handmade Jane. It was a scant half meter of fabric, so I'd been saving it for a small but special project...I think this counts! Even so, I didn't have quite enough fabric so the last panel is cut from another small quilting cotton remnant that I actually inherited from another friend's stash. Although I'm posting this in February, I did sew it up while it was still January, so that totally counts for the Itty Bits theme, right?

Tiny polka dots and cats! Does it get any better than that?

I'm pretty sure that I'll end up choosing a black fashion fabric for the outside shell. I thought about making something more fancy or elaborate, but in the end decided that black would be the most versatile. Besides, then I can use it for the Ursula and Maleficent cosplays that I'd like to do eventually. Any suggestions for an actual fabric type though? I don't want it to be super-shiny, but I want it to still be dressy. Help!

19 comments:

  1. I like silk taffeta. Its not super shiny but it just has a classy look. And its so much fun to work with. I made an 18th century corset it from it. LOVE!!!!!

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  2. Silk cotton, maybe? The stuff I've used has a nice sheen, but it's not too shiny. Looks good so far!

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  3. Hmm. Polka dots and Handmade Jane. Perfect combination. I wish they had sewing classes where I live like what they have in your neck of the woods. Things are looking good with your make.

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  4. Omg how exciting!! I can't wait to see the FO!!

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  5. Wow, this already looks fabulous. Can't wait to see the final thing!

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  6. I've taken a few classes with Lynda (at Canada and CCSF)--I love her energy, and I've learned SO much about fitting and pattern alteration. Aren't we lucky to have her in the Bay Area!

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  7. How fun! I love surprise linings!

    Taffeta is a good choice for outer fabric or you could also use the back (dull) side of some satin - I would try something thick like duchess satin.

    I've been wanting to make myself some totally unnecessary boned bodice like this for ages! I have the same pattern you are using, but I think I want to use copy of a vintage ballet bodice a local costumer perfected because it fits everyone - and I mean EVERYONE. (I think it has 16 pieces instead of the typical 8 you see on most patterns.) I'm going to see if I can get a tracing of it when I go back to work next week in the college costume shop where they use it.

    Can't wait to see your finished piece! And the fun cosplay outfits you use it for!

    ~ Brooke

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    1. How could you possibly make a bustier that fits everyone?

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    2. Jessica, just now noticed your question. The vintage pattern is constructed in such a way that the seams allow for perfect molding to the wearer because of the directions of the bias on each panel. It truly seems like magic! The only thing that might need adjusting is body length if you are incredibly long-waisted (as I know one dancer is and she added some length to hers just to get it to hit at her hips properly).

      ~ Brooke

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  8. I think this lovely deserves some silk crepe!

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  9. Fabulous again! Someday I want to take some of these classes you keep sharing with us. They sound so good and we can always use another excuse to go to the fabric store!

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  10. I can't wait to see the finished product. How exciting!

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  11. In 2007 I made my daughter's wedding dress with a boned bodice because it was strapless. It was quite a learning experience because I had never done boning before. I wish I had taken a course like the one you are in. The dress was all silk and we bought all of it at Thai Silks in Los Altos. http://www.thaisilks.com/ I am sure you could find something really lovely for the corset there, the prices are very reasonable.

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  12. You did a wonderful job on the wedding dress - I can see why you want something equally nice for yourself. This looks a great little corset top - looking forward to seeing how it proceeds :)

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  13. I made an Edwardian era one using drapery silk. It was really great, not shiny, and strong enough to h old up. Washable too!!!
    Nancy N

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  14. It's not selfish at all to want to make something beautiful for yourself. There is no law that says we cannot enjoy the fruits of our own labor and talent. That class looks like it is fabulous! I'm wishing they had something like that near me. The wedding dress is gorgeous! I look forward to see how this turns out :)

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  15. Oh, this looks like so much fun! Makes me want to grab out my corset patterns again.... I'm curious what the flannel underlining does! :D

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  16. Yesss! Elaborate! This is going to look gorgeous on you Cindy! Kitty and I can't wait to see.

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  17. Have you finished the bustier? If so, how has it turned out? By the way, I love all of your sheet dresses. They are all so whimsical and lovely.

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